Bathtub reglazing, also known as the bathtub and shower repair resurfacing is essentially the process by which restored an old bathtub, worn as a new condition by applying a new finish on the surface of enamel in the bathtub. Thus, the names reglazing, refinishing and resurfacing.
The bathtub reglazing developed in the 1950s because of the inconvenience and high cost of replacing a bathtub.

Replacing a bathtub is not only expensive but can also be a real nuisance. You must contact the elimination of the old bathtub, breaking tiles and retiling. You might need to do some plumbing work to replace the damaged pipe as a result of the removal procedure and of course, plug in the new bath to existing plumbing.

The cost of doing all this work, it can add at least two thousand dollars. And even if you know how to do the work yourself and are willing to go through the hassle, a decent bathroom will cost at least $ 800. 00 to replace. A bath can be blows right into your bathroom without disturbing the existing tables, fixtures or pipes.

The process takes three to four hours and is ready after 24 hours. There are several methods and materials used in the process of bathtub reglazing. Many use an acid solution to save the tub, then spray on an epoxy primer and finally a layer of acrylic finish. The problem with this system is that strong acids (such as acid hyrofluoric) destroys the surface so that it continues to deteriorate, even after the primer is applied. This can cause the material to break with the constant use of hot water.

Some use a chemical binding agent (primary fabric) instead of an epoxy primer spray. This type of primer is easier and faster to implement, but the link created is lower than the epoxy spray and is likely to decompose in two years with constant use of hot water. Clean the primers are recommended for glass only.

The best way to blows a bath is to clean the surface with an industrial cleaner as well, the first in the bathtub with water resistant epoxy primer that does not require etching and finally apply an aliphatic acrylic urethane which is designed especially for the bathtub reglazing industry. If the process succeeds, and the tub is maintained properly, bathtub reglazing could be an excellent alternative effective cost of replacing an old worn tub.

Preparation

Isolate the water supply.

If you are replacing an existing sink, drain pipes of hot and cold water by turning on the taps. Label the tubes of hot water so you know cold.

To replace an old sink in an existing unit to ensure the sink is the right size for the hole in the top of the device.

Cut in the work plan

If you are a well of mounting a new area of work that may need to cut a recess hole.

Put beside the sink in the countertop to ensure that There is even space in the front and back of the sink. Mark the position of the sink with a pencil.

Taking the measure of the pool, draw another line in the first. Using a drill with an auger drill a hole at each corner in the inside lane.

In one of the holes with a jigsaw, cut along the inside line.

After creating the hole in the sink to check it inserts. If you are satisfied with the resolution fixing the edges of the countertop with a wood preservative.

Login you feeding tubes

Whether you are replacing an old sink or any unit The first thing to do is turn the sink upside down and to find housing marked E on the board.

Install ground wire green and yellow in this market to prevent the risk of electric shock if the device is in contact with an electrical current. If the sink is stainless steel wire will attach these to land, located between the metal fittings of their equipment.

Follow the manufacturer of the sink to accommodate the clips up.

To place the taps, shut the valves on the prefabricated holes on the back of the sink (or a single hole, if you have a faucet piece .) If the supply pipes are too high to connect to the queues that must be cut to size with a tubing cutter or, alternatively, a hacksaw. If the exhaust pipes are plastic, plastic connector between the tail of the faucet and supply pipes will be necessary. connectors pass hoses faucet or hose for the supply of hot and cold water through the bottom hole and attach to the tail correct faucet.

Valves secured in position under the camera with nuts and washers, sealing the junction between the faucets and sink with silicone or attached. The receiver can be guaranteed over the counter, squeezing the clips in the sequence, making sure it is waterproof adhesive seal in the sink with the counter.

Mounting a tap piece

If there is a tap piece must be installed, then you will need to cut joints or fittings to connect the 10mm (2/5in) pipe piece 15 mm (3/5in) supply pipe.

Attach a stopcock, sometimes called service valve at each supply tube and turn off the position.

Attach a 15mm (3/5in) piece of copper tubing from the top of the service valve. Screw 10 mm (2/5in) to reduce the articulation of the tail and then press slot 15mm (3/5in) late in the copper pipe, bending, gently tap the tail if they are a bit off the alignment on supply lines.

Tighten both ends with a key and turn on each service valve.

The receiver can be guaranteed over the counter, squeezing the clips in the sequence, making sure it is waterproof adhesive seal in the sink with the counter.

To connect the hose is a kit containing a tubular siphon, often called a trap P or S trap because of its forms, the odors that rise from the sink. Connect the vertical at the bottom of the sink, just screw it up. At the same time, connect the drain hose to the overflow outlet in the sink.

Place P-trap or S-trap vertical exit the pool and then connect the horizontal branch pipe at the other end. Make sure all joints are snug together.

Shut off water leaks, tighten connections. When checking for leaks, make sure that water has had time to build the optimum pressure. Continue to regularly check the connections for a couple of days to ensure that no leaks have developed slowly.